A Travellerspoint blog

Maybe the Show Is on the Road

semi-overcast 58 °F

Friday, June 8, 2018


We arrived at Pender Harbor Tuesday afternoon a little beat up from the run north from Vancouver. The weather forecast was for storm winds on Thursday, so a layover day seemed prudent. Then the storm was supposed to come on Thursday night. Then the storm was supposed to arrive Friday. Well, here we are on Friday and, finally, it’s here, and a little more than anticipated: a full Gale Warning. We have done these before and there is no need for another merit badge. The good news is that it looks likely to move past us quickly. The winds should attenuate this afternoon, but it always takes a while for the water to calm down after a blow, so Saturday is still the plan.

This area, as mentioned, is called the Sunshine Coast, claiming 300 days of sunshine per year. The real answer is more like 300 hours, with an hour every day. When I was researching the trip the historical data pointed to rain on half the days in June. That is probably what has happened, but not in the manner I thought. Rather than a prolonged period of rain, we have had brief showers, lasting not very long, and with not very much actual rainfall.

We have both been sleeping until about 0500 when it is very light out. It is not fully dark until after 2100, and the summer solstice is not until June, 21. So, the days will keep getting longer for the duration of the cruise, and we'll probably keep waking up earlier.

As feared, the boat only has one interior DC outlet. But, we've done OK because we have a 1 to 5 outlet that charges both phones and both Kindles. The cell coverage has been mostly OK. Phone service has not been a problem; data service has been a little bit intermittent, but overall, good enough.

Saturday, June 9, 2018
Pender Harbour was not an easy entry or exit. There are several smaller islands between the harbour and the open waters. The chart plotter is useful in most cases but made for a tough choice; set it at close range so the small obstructions are visible or set it a a longer range and see how to get around the islands. I don't really recall this sort of situation before. Toggling between the two worked but took my eyes off the business at hand.

Anyway, we made it out early, catching about half the ebbing tide. When we left there was cloud cover but, maybe, 25% sunshine through the clouds. Seemed like a good enough deal. We rounded the point and headed generally East up Agamemnon Channel. Sunshine behind and this ahead. It looked ominous; then the rain started. Not so much fun but definitely part of the cruising experience.



Save for the water, these clouds were reminiscent of our Smoky Mountains.

Then the rain stopped, mostly, but not quite all the way. It seemed like we were heading into the backside of beyond. There were a few houses along the water; off the grid is not enough to describe them. More like off the map or the face of the earth. No roads, no power, potable water I couldn't tell; access only by water, and a fancy floating dock to do that. It seemed more and more remote. Then we rounded another point of land to see a huge BC water ferry. At first I thought that it might have been in a repair yard. But there was a mooring dock that is unique to most ferries and I could see an asphalt road with yellow lines. When the ferry zoomed past us at 15 - 20 knots it was a sure thing. A functional ferry way back in the interior connecting not very much to nothing really there and it was doing so several times a day.



Then the sun came out. Go Figure. 12 to 15 miles, less than 3 hours. A complete meteorological tour of Agamemnon Sound.



We had time to explore so we headed north to Hotham Sound to see Freil Falls and the Harmony Islands. The falls are way cool. The drop is almost 1,500 feet from Freil Lake on top of the mountain. The waterfall is about a mile or so from the Harmony Islands, another British Columbia Marine Park. We had thought to anchor there but some of the land is private and it just seemed like too much of a hassle. So, we didn't, opting instead to go south a few miles and moor at Egmont.

While we were in Hotham Sound we may have seen some seals. That is the best guess based on the behavior they exhibited. If they were, in fact, seals, all we really saw were their snouts and a swirl of water when they dived.

Now the question is where to next? The lost days now look like more of an issue. I now wish that I had done things differently but that's water under the keel. Tonight we'll look at the options and distances and come up with a plan. Who knows, it might even be a good one.

Posted by sailziveli 15:42 Archived in Canada

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